11 Best Things to Do in Split, Croatia (Local Tips)

I'm Sarah, a Canadian who has lived in Croatia for 13 years. With my Croatian husband Ivan, I run Royal Croatian Tours. Many travellers treat Split as a ferry port on the way to the islands. Please don't! Croatia's second largest city is one of our favourite places in the country, and it deserves at least a day or two. Here's what to see and do.

Palm trees on the Riva in front of Diocletian's Palace, Split — The Riva and Diocletian's Palace

11 Best Things to Do in Split, Croatia (Local Tips)

1. Diocletian's Palace

Split's old town lives inside the walls of a Roman palace built around 300 AD by Emperor Diocletian as his retirement home. It's one of Croatia's ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and people still live, work and drink coffee inside it today.

Morning light in a street inside Diocletian's Palace, Split — Inside Diocletian's Palace

2. The Peristyle

The palace's main square, with steps where you can sit on cushions with a coffee from the café bar. Look out for the black granite sphinx brought from Egypt, the only one of Diocletian's sphinxes left intact.

3. Climb the bell tower

The Romanesque bell tower of the Cathedral of St Domnius, built between the 13th and 16th centuries, is about 57 metres tall. Around 200 narrow, steep steps take you to the top for views over the whole city, the sea and the mountains. Skip it on very windy (bura) days. The cathedral itself was originally Diocletian's mausoleum.

View over Split old town, the Riva and the harbour — Split from above

4. The Vestibule

A magnificent round hall, square on the outside, with an open dome looking straight up at the sky. It was the entrance to the emperor's private quarters, and the acoustics are wonderful: you may hear klapa singers here.

5. The palace basements

The cellars under the palace mirror the layout of the emperor's apartments above. They're a maze of vaulted halls, and you'll see original wooden beams from around 300 AD. Game of Thrones fans will recognise them too.

Laundry drying between stone houses in Split old town — People still live inside the palace walls

6. Coffee on the Riva

The palm-lined seafront promenade is the heart of Split's social life. Do as the locals do: take a coffee or an ice cream and sit by the sea.

The palm-lined Riva promenade by the sea in Split — The Riva promenade

7. Bačvice beach and picigin

A sandy, shallow city beach just 10 minutes' walk from the old town, great for kids. Watch the locals play picigin, keeping a small ball in the air in the shallow water. In the evening, Bačvice's cafés and clubs come alive.

8. Marjan Hill

Walk up from the old town (or drive) to the first viewpoint, Prva Vidilica, 178 metres above the sea, where a café looks out over the city, the islands and the mountains. Marjan's forest park has trails, chapels and quiet beaches for a longer walk.

9. Try black risotto

For lunch, order crni rižot, risotto coloured with cuttlefish ink, or grilled fresh fish, with a glass of Dalmatian wine.

10. Rub Gregory of Nin's toe

Ivan Meštrović's giant statue of the medieval bishop who fought for church services in Croatian stands just outside the Golden Gate. Rubbing his big toe is said to bring good luck, which is why it shines.

11. Feel the Hajduk spirit

You'll see murals for Hajduk Split all over town. In Dalmatia, the football club is close to a religion.

From Split to the islands

Split is the perfect base for day trips: take a private boat to Brač, Hvar and the Pakleni Islands, visit Krka National Park, or stop at Klis Fortress just above the city. Our 7 day Classic Croatia itinerary starts with two days in Split. For the beaches, see our 10 best sandy beaches.