Our First Time Camping With Kids in Croatia: Was It a Mistake?

Okay, I have to be honest with you. When we planned our very first family camping trip, I had no idea it would start with sold-out ferries, bumper-to-bumper traffic at 5:30 in the morning, and me literally trembling in the car.

But let me back up a little.

Eleven years ago, before we had any kiddos, Ivan and I spent a holiday on Dugi Otok and completely fell in love with it. We always said we'd come back. This summer we finally did, with our three kids, a brand-new tent and way too much stuff crammed into the car. Our only "practice" was one night camping in our backyard. Ha!

So was it a mistake? Grab a coffee and I'll tell you everything.

The ferry drama (oh my goodness)

Our alarms went off at 4:30am. By 4:36 we were up and ready to go, and somehow, I still don't know how, everything fit in the trunk and the roof box. I honestly thought we'd have to leave half our stuff behind, so that felt like a win already.

Here's where we made our first beginner mistake. We didn't buy ferry tickets ahead of time. It was all very last minute, and we said, let's not buy them until we're sure we're going. Well. When we tried to book from the car, every ferry from Zadar to Dugi Otok was sold out except the 9pm one.

We grabbed those tickets, but arriving at camp at 11pm with three tired kids and a tent to set up? No thank you. And then we hit traffic. At 5:30 in the morning! My Google Maps was showing nothing but red.

When we finally got to the port, it was so hot and sticky. I went to the ticket office hoping they'd saved some tickets for walk-ins, but nope. Everything is sold online. Our only hope was that a few people stuck in that same traffic would miss the noon ferry.

The ferry pulled in and it looked completely full. The guy told us we couldn't board without tickets for that time, but if we waited at the side, they might be able to squeeze us in. Car after car after car went on. Yes, no, yes, no. And then we started inching forward... and we were on!

There was screaming. I'm not even sorry. Holy moly, I was relieved.

Why we love Dugi Otok so much

An hour and a half later we drove off the ferry onto Dugi Otok, about ten hours earlier than planned. Way better than setting up a tent in the middle of the night!

If you haven't heard of Dugi Otok, it's one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia, and it still feels kind of untouched. It's far from the mainland, so you just don't get the crowds you find in the busier spots.

The name means "Long Island", and Ivan loves explaining this part. It's a long, skinny island, about 45 km from end to end. One whole side faces the open sea toward Italy, and that's why the water is so pristine.

A quick lay of the land:

• Sali, the biggest town, is down in the south.
• Telašćica Nature Park is in the south too, with a salt lake and some really high cliffs.
• Veli Rat and its lighthouse are right at the northern tip. That's where we were headed.

One funny thing we noticed driving up the island: because it's so long and thin, the car radio keeps catching signals from both countries. One minute it's Croatian, the next minute it's Italian!

Home sweet home in Veli Rat

It was around 40°C when we got to the campsite, so before we did anything else, we all went for a quick dip in the sea. Let me tell you, that was so refreshing. Ollie's review: "I was melting and this refreshed me." Exactly.

First impressions of our spot? Amazing. Lots of space, really shady, and the sea is just steps away. You can actually see it from our pitch. And there's Wi-Fi now! Eleven years ago there was no internet here at all. The phone signal is still terrible, but hey, progress.

Of course, we're total beginners, so we made a few mistakes:

• The ground is super rocky. Veli Rat is hard terrain, full of stones, which is not exactly ideal for a tent.
• We lost a mattress cap. I didn't double check that each air mattress had its cap, and we must have lost one after our backyard trial. I asked at the front desk if they had a spare. They didn't, but they lent us a whole mattress instead. Problem solved!
• Our tent is a little tight. It's a four-person tent, and we're two adults and three kids. We'll survive.

It took us a bit over an hour, but by 6pm we were all set up. I'll give you the tour: our luxurious table and chair set (with little cushions!), a food and cooler corner, some hanging storage bins I ordered, and a picnic blanket in the shade so the kids could read or play cards. Once our solar lights came on, it honestly felt like a little living room.

Back at our favourite beach, 11 years later

That evening we walked to the little pebble beach Ivan and I used to go to every single day, all those years ago. And you guys, it's just as beautiful as I remember. The pebbles are so smooth and soft on your feet, and the water is the most perfectly clear, clean, crystal water you've ever seen. And warm!

Last time it was just the two of us. Now we have three little babies. Well, they're not really little babies anymore, they're big kids. Watching them swim in the same spot at sunset was really special. I was just soaking it all up.

We stayed until the sun went down, so dinner was a simple snacky one at 9:15: fruit, veggies, crackers and cheese at our cute little table under the lights. The kids' new best friends? Their headlamps.

And then, bedtime. How did we sleep? Sophie gave her night a 10 out of 10. She said the crickets made her fall asleep, which is the sweetest thing. Ivan and I? More like a 5 or 6. Surprisingly, it wasn't the heat. It actually got a bit chilly in the night and we grabbed sheets. The problem was our two air mattresses at different heights, so whoever was in the middle had nowhere good to go. First night trial, right?

What we ate at camp

Morning one started the best way: Ivan made coffee, and I have to say, it was so delicious. Coffee just tastes better outdoors.

We all woke up super early (I don't think we'll be sleeping in much while camping), except Sophie, who slept in the latest of everyone. The campsite has a little shop with fresh eggs, so we made eggs and hot dogs in a pan. We never buy hot dogs at home, but they felt like a fun camping thing. The verdict from the kids? Camping eggs are better than the ones at home. Fluffy and delicious, apparently.

Lunch was tuna pasta salad, which is my go-to summer meal for camp. It's quick, easy peasy, and perfect when it's this hot:

1. At home, I pre-portion about 500 g of pasta, so there's nothing to measure at camp.
2. Boil the pasta and chop up some fresh veggies while you wait.
3. Mix in the tuna and veggies, and bon appétit!

Then it was back to the beach, of course. It cools down at night, but by day it was 40° again.

Climbing the Veli Rat Lighthouse

If you've ever seen a photo of Dugi Otok, you've probably seen this lighthouse. It's such a picturesque spot. And somehow, in all our time here, we had never been up to the top. This time we said, let's do it.

A few fun facts:

• It was built in 1849.
• At 42 m, it's the tallest lighthouse on the Adriatic.
• It sits at the northernmost point of Dugi Otok.
• Tickets are €5 for adults, and kids go free.

There's a legend that thousands of egg yolks were mixed into the construction to make it stronger. Whether it's true or not, we don't know, but the kids thought it was pretty cool. You can also rent an apartment inside the lighthouse. How unique would that be?

Okay, the climb. There are 174 steps, and I was out of breath before we even got to them. Then, at the very top, there's a ladder. A steep one. The kids said the stairs were easy peasy, but the ladder was scary going up and even scarier coming down. One of them said it was as steep as a mountain! But they did it, and I'm so proud of them.

The view was worth every step. We could see our campsite and our favourite beach from up there.

My tip: go at sunset. There are always people gathered under the lighthouse in the evening, and I really think it's the most amazing spot on the island to watch the sun go down.

What I'd tell you before camping with kids on Dugi Otok

We learned a lot in just a few days, so here's what I wish someone had told me:

• Book your ferry online, and book it early. In July and August, car tickets from Zadar sell out, and they don't hold any back for people who show up at the port. Learn from us!
• Leave earlier than you think. We hit traffic before 6am. If you do end up waiting for a spot, getting there early gives you the best chance.
• Check every mattress cap before you go. Then pack a spare. Trust me.
• Bring headlamps for everyone. The kids loved them, and they make bedtime so much easier.
• Shade is everything. It was 40°C during the day. Look for a shady pitch, and bring a blanket for hanging out in the shade outside the tent.
• Think about tent size. A four-person tent works for a family of five, but it's snug.
• Keep meals simple. Pre-portion things at home, and check if your campsite shop sells fresh eggs.
• Save the lighthouse for sunset. And bring €5 per adult. Kids climb free!

More packing ideas in my Croatia packing list.

So... was it a mistake?

Not even a little bit. Yes, we made beginner mistakes. Yes, I slept terribly that first night. And yes, we almost didn't make it onto the ferry. But when I asked the kids how they liked camping, they said it was amazing, and that it felt like home.

Bringing our kids back to the place where Ivan and I made so many memories, before they were even born, was really special. I would honestly live here if I could.

Have you ever been camping in Croatia? Tell me your favourite campsite or island on our YouTube video!

Thinking about a trip to Croatia with your family? Ivan and I would love to help. We plan private, tailor-made trips all over the country, and our 10 day Croatia family tour is made for travelling with kids. Or tell us about your trip and we'll put together your own itinerary.